Continuing this week’s theme of crisp, cool-climate whites, today I sampled Grüner Veltliner for the first time. This one is from one of the oldest producers in Austria, and it happens to also be one of the longest biodynamic-practicing wineries in the world. Add lengthy lees contact into the mix, and there’s a ripe opportunity for some interesting flavors.

The wine is a clear pale lemon in color. I’d classify the aromas as fairly light-intensity. I picked up notes of pear, yellow apple, and something dough-like, along with noticeable funkiness.

On the palate, stronger bakery notes come through. On the front is pastry, followed by a wash of fairly grounded fruit flavors — mostly pear, yellow apple, and apricot.

My best analogy here is that it has the flavor profile of a pastry filled with apricots or marmalade, but without cloying sweetness — instead, it has an almost beer-adjacent funk.

It’s crisp but not overpoweringly bright. The mouthfeel is silky and pleasant and this wine drinks quite easily — I’m okay with this, as it clocks in at 11% ABV. The funk and the pear notes linger on a medium-long finish.

I chilled the wine to 46°F before pouring into a Spiegelau white wine glass. Following the initial tasting and photo, I paired it with a ham and vegetable quiche.

This bottle retails for just shy of $30 in my area. I can’t confidently say that it would make my regular rotation, but I could absolutely see myself enjoying this for the occasional outdoor sip once the weather gets nicer.