I generally preferred the 1998s over the 2000 wines (with the exception of the two Graves wines, which shouldn't count since the '98 Graves were both probably damaged). While the 1998s were generally rich and intense, they still had enough acidity to provide balance.

Somewhat surprising was that the '98 Conseillante turned out to be my WOTN -- a red-fruited, silky and graceful gem of a wine (though I think most other folks preferred either the '98 VCC, which was my second-placed wine, and the '00 La Mission, which was certainly impressive in its density, mass, and scale).

I generally was not particularly fond of the 2000s at this moment. At best, you can say they are still very far from being close to ready, though the ripeness and plumminess of the wines make me wonder whether they will ever develop complexity or finesse. Again, most of the other people at the table disagreed and were far more optimistic about their futures. I guess we should check back again in 15 years.

NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve: Exactly what I expected. Slightly peachy, just a touch sweet, with richness, depth, and refreshing liveliness. A model of consistency with every bottle. One of the best entry-level champagnes on the market. From magnum.

1998 Ch“teau Les Carmes Haut-Brion: Lifted nose with some noticeable hints of VA. On the palate, it is very tangy with crunchy red fruit and edgy, jagged acidity. There is some finesse on the palate, but this seems too lifted and natty to be correct. Apparently, the cork was pretty spongy, so I'm assuming this was flawed.

2000 Ch“teau Les Carmes Haut-Brion: The palate has rich, dark berry fruit while texturally this feels slightly slick and polished. While it isn't inelegant, the weight of the wine feels a little heavy and ponderous for me (though I wouldn't call this an overly gloopy, unstructured wine either). Definitely wears the vintage on its sleeve.

1998 Ch“teau La Conseillante: This is absolutely terrific. Tobacco, green bell pepper, and some blackberry on the nose, slightly reminiscent of Cabernet Franc (though the cepage is only 20% Cab Franc with the rest Merlot). Super elegant and finessed on the palate, with silky tannins and surprisingly reddish fruit. Acidity is on point and the wine is just flat out more-ish.

2000 Ch“teau La Conseillante: Unadulterated and straightforward blackberry on the nose. Lots of blue fruit on the palate, leaning towards the plummy and simple. A little monolithic and dense at this point. Maybe this just needs more time to develop complexity, but not super interesting right now.

1998 Ch“teau Figeac: Very powerful nose of blackberry, graphite, tobacco, damp earth, and leather. While very delicate and elegant on the palate, the dark fruit was still surprisingly primary and slightly crunchy with just an undertone of smoke. Slightly rustic and lifted with a touch of grippy, drying tannins, which are more or less resolved. Pretty good, but I was expecting more. Maybe not the best bottle.

2000 Ch“teau Figeac: Quite aromatic with a pronounced green, herbal, minty thing happening on the nose. The palate has big dark fruit, some interesting smoke and tobacco notes, and a streak of green that seems really atypical for the vintage. Intriguing, but a little weird to have a wine with such ripe, dense fruit married with such pronounced pyrazine flavors and aromas.

1998 Vieux Ch“teau Certan: Very expressive nose with just a hint of brett and green pepper swirling amidst the floral and dark fruited aromas. Texturally silky and elegant, and while the crunchy red fruit is rich (and smoky), the incisive acidity provides a lively and mouth-watering tension. Super yum.

2000 Vieux Ch“teau Certan: The nose has ripe fruit and the palate is a bit heavy compared to the 1998, but there is still elegance and good acidity to keep the dark fruit on the palate from coming across as plummy. Definitely still a little closed, but I can see this being really good down the road with additional age.

1998 Ch“teau La Mission Haut-Brion: Ashy on the nose, drying, firm tannins on the palate. Slightly cooked and stewed dark, ripe, plummy fruit. Possibly heat damaged.

2000 Ch“teau La Mission Haut-Brion: The nose is a little plummy, but there are interesting tobacco and herbal notes as well. Smoky and ashy on the palate, with dark, imposing fruit and firm tannins. Definitely a bit clenched and monolithic, but if this unwinds a bit and gains a little complexity and finesse, I can see this becoming pretty impressive. But that is going to be far into the future.

2001 Ch“teau Rieussec: This is a big, big wine that punches you in the face with the intense fruit and botrytized apricot flavors. However, its lacking in acidity and comes across a little too saccharine for my tastes. The powerful nose of apricot, flowers, and honey is quite nice though. From 375.

2001 Ch“teau Suduiraut: This was quite nice. Rich, but there's good acidity to cut through the fruit and there is quite a bit of finesse as well. The botrytis provide complexity rather than overwhelm the palate. From 375.