1996 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia: This was among the most complex wines I have had the privilege of tasting, and as someone who is new to white Rioja, this was an "ah-ha" moment. You could smell this as soon as it was opened. It has many layers of ripe tropical fruit, roasted nuts, sea breeze, white pepper, buttered popcorn, an umami quality, and many other notes that are too numerous and fleeting to pinpoint. On the palate, this had a weight and persistence that I rarely find in non-dessert whtie wines, but with contrasting acidity to give it some lift. Truly stunning wine that left us speechless. Don't serve this too cold!

1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia: Had side by side with the '96 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco at L'Étoile in Madison, WI. Would never have guessed this was 44 years old; it was vivid, violet in color with no bricking. Gorgeous aroma of raspberry, strawberry, clove, sous bois. This is powerful, layered, and beautifully balanced. The palate shares this depth of flavor with a surprising freshness that makes it hard to put down. Definitely the best red Rioja I've had so far, and shows what these can become with enough time. I can't imagine how this could get much better but given how gracefully this has aged, I wouldn't be surprised if this continues to shine for another 44 years.