2006 Cristal - the third Cristal I’ve tried, after the 2002 and the 2007, and honestly this was the best so far. It is in a wonderful place, extremely expressive and generous, but with an exceptionally fresh and cleansing acidity on the finish. Bountiful fruit and toasted nuts, crème pat, honey and yoghurt. Tons of fun. 96pts

2006 Taittinger CdC - so different to the Cristal. Serious, mineral, savoury and textured. A wonderful citrus peel freshness, crushed rocks and an almost malty hint. The texture is creamy and almost oily, but well defined and substantial, which I think demonstrates the impact of malolactic fermentation - this underwent 100% Malo, the Cristal none at all. Chiselled out of marble. 96pts

2000 Dereszla Tokaji Aszu Eszencia - an absolutely wild wine. Concentration and depth, lusciously sweet (over 250g/l) but with truly monumental acidity sustaining the entire thing. Marmalade, apricots, rose petals, spice and toasted walnuts. An absolute joy. 97pts